Because most historical clarinets are made out of boxwood, maintaining a proper humidity and moisture content is essential for the longevity of the instrument. Similarly, the wooden mouthpieces also require care and occasional oiling, and might need to be refaced or touched up more frequently than a modern hard rubber mouthpiece.

I recommend maintaining a constant humidity level of around 45% for instruments whenever they are not being played. During the winter months in drier climates, humidifiers are essential to preventing cracks. When traveling by air, placing the instrument joints in plastic bags from the grocery store produce aisle before putting the joints in the case can also help prevent loss of humidity due to changes in cabin pressure. If possible, I recommend letting the instrument “rest” after a flight before heading into rehearsals or performances, the wood will settle overnight.

I use linseed oil while building my instruments, and less viscous almond oil for subsequent oiling sessions and recommend that players use the same when they oil the bodies of their instruments. This is the process that I use for general oiling.

• Remove the keys from the instrument. If playing on a Lotz copy or multi-keyed instrument, do not worry about removing the brass saddles or brackets. Make sure you mark which hinge pins go with each key.

• Take an old swab and pour some almond oil on it, use your hands to spread the oil around so that it coats the entire swab lightly and uniformly. You do not need a lot of oil.

• Take apart each joint (including the Right Hand and Stock) and run the swab through every joint until you see a sheen of oil throughout the bore. DON’T FORGET TO OIL THE SOCKETS AND ENDGRAIN.

• Oil the outside of the instrument if desired. The main purpose of oiling is to protect the bore, but oiling the outside can be helpful, especially in the winter.

• Let the instrument sit on a desk or table away from a heater or air conditioning unit for at least 12 hours, preferably 24. The oil will absorb into the bore. Any excess oil can be swabbed away with a clean swab after this time.

• Refit the keys.

For mouthpieces, chalumeaux, and other instruments made of grenadilla, rosewood, or ebony, I recommend a blended oil of 50 percent almond oil, 25 percent mineral oil (unscented), and 25 percent orange or lemon oil. This allows for a deeper penetration into the bore.

Flat pads may be replaced with chamois as a base layer and soft leather as a contact layer. I have found that “Cabretta” leather golf gloves have a very long life as pad material and are naturally resistant to saliva and oil. For vegans and people who prefer to avoid using leather, synthetic pads made be made with 3M Microfoam Surgical Tape.

I recommend only using waxed cotton thread for replacing the tenon windings.

Spring tension, key heights, and key opening adjustments are best made in consultation with a competent instrument builder.